This day just about wore me out! I had a couple of buddies over for dinner the night before and I was telling them about this spot that no one really surfs. They were down to surf it, so we met up at 630 am the next morning and trekked out over there. It’s quite a hike, but that’s kind of the fun of it too. When we arrived it didn’t look that good, but as we stuck around there were definitely some gems. We surfed from 7 – 10 am. We got so many close out barrels that our ears were ringing the rest of the day, literally. We made some tubes too
We later on surfed Roca Blanca, but it was choppy and a mess. By the end of the day I was drained. But smiling in a deep sleep.